Monday, February 26, 2007

Restaurant Review: Aigre Doux - 3 stars (out of 4)

This past Saturday I ventured out in the sleet and snow to try out one of Chicago's newest restaurant's, Aigre Doux, and the trip was more than worthwhile. Located in the old Pilli Pilli space right behind the Merchandise Mart, Aigre Doux's interior was clean and simple but with a few touches, specifically some gorgeous chandeliers in the front room, that gave the space a warmer feel.

We arrived a little early so there was time for a pre-dinner drink at the bar, which was also sleek and simple but with a friendly and knowledgeable bartender. Although we ended up being seated in the smaller front dining room, versus the larger and busier back room, I was ultimately okay with the choice as they put us at the table directly in the front window because obviously, as Greg (my s.o.) stated, "we are the best looking people in here and they want us to help bring in the business". While I will never argue with a statement like that - unless sitting at a table next to Gisele, we were definitely the youngest table in the restaurant by a good twenty years, which I was a little surprised at given that neither the decor, location nor menu are stuffy or outdated. I guess we can be pleasantly surprised that those fiftysomethings and older are wising up to the great dining in River North.

Speaking of the dining, let me say it was a wonderful meal. The menu itself is a little bit of everything with an emphasis on fish dishes for the main entrees so don't be fooled by the French name, these dishes I would all describe as contemporary with a mix of Italian, Asian, and even California influences of course with a little French mixed in. I started off with the risotto appetizer which was delicious but let's be honest, if a risotto is done well it's about impossible for them to ever miss the mark. However, this dish received an extra star for forming the risotto into small balls, then rolled in bread crumbs and lightly fried for a crispy exterior and savory, gooey, center, set upon a thin slice of prosciutto and served with a side of aioli the provided the perfect kick to an already flavorful bite. I also managed to snag a bite of my date's appetizer, oxtail ravioli and the chef also did a fine job with this dish, with just enough of the tasty oxtail in each bite but not so much as to overpower the dish.

For the next course I went with the salmon, and at this point in the meal my only complaint (also echoed by everyone else at my table) was the server's reluctance to specifically recommend a few top dishes. I know you're trying to represent your new employer well and all but honestly if there are a few favorites we appreciate the tip - so get specific! So, without a word from our waitress I went ahead with the herbed salmon that was accompanied by a parsnip puree and some braised endive. Side note: can I just say how much I love parsnips - I think they are a highly underrated food - Chicago chefs, please serve them more! My dish was beautifully plated, the salmon itself actually came rolled up and within each layer were the herbs which were the highlight of the dish, everything was done well, and overall I was happy with my dish but then I made the mistake of sampling Greg's skate wing and was immediately hit with orderer's remorse for his dish was waaaaaaaaaay tastier than mine! Delicate yet very flavorful the skate wing almost melted when you took a bite - I will definitely be back to order that item. Fish was theme at the majority of the table as the others ordered the turbot which was also deemed to be quite good and the lone red meat outlier of steak and frites was thoroughly enjoyed as well.

When it came time for dessert I already knew what I wanted, after reading several other reviews of Aigre Doux I had heard that the sticky toffee pudding was not to be missed, and while I can't say that I've ever had sticky toffee pudding before I felt that it was a must this time around. So let me stick with the pack and re-emphasize that the pudding is fabulous, and actually not pudding at all but more a spongy cake soaked in a caramel-like sauce. However, the sauce was nice and light, not overpowering the pudding with a sickly sweet flavor as caramel can sometimes do, then to top off the dish it was served with a scoop of Devonshire cream sorbet, which I quickly tried to lay full claim to even though I was "sharing" the dessert, the sorbet was good enough to be eaten alone, which I did, but I also made a point to pair some of the pudding with a few of the orange slices on the plate and the result was heaven, and this is from someone who does not consider the flavor orange to be a dessert one. The other dessert our table ordered was the chocolate malted which looked like a contemporary version of pots de creme and although I did not sample it for myself I was assured that it too was also delicious.

So fully sated and satisfied we sat and savored dessert and a few after dinner drinks until the restaurant was about closed, and without any complaint or comment from the staff, which can sometimes be rare, especially in a new and popular establishment, so it appears that Aigre Doux is committed to creating a an inviting space to sit and enjoy a leisurely dinner. With only being open a month, I was more than impressed with the service and food and will definitely be back in the future!

No comments: