Another restaurant review coming your way, but before I progress I should provide some explanation to my rating system. The standard "1" is bad, "4" is the best scale doesn't apply here, my scale is modeled somewhat like Phil Vettel's (Tribune's food critic). 1 is okay, 2 pretty good, 3 a definite delight, I will be back and 4 means a place is made for you in my Chicago favorites list. So with being said, here's my review of Saltaus.
A restaurant also located on the West Loop restaurant row that is Randolph Street, Saltaus is a recently new edition opened for about a year and a half, located at the far west end of the strip of gastronomy. A contemporary American spot, Saltaus is housed in a very contemporary storefront, light woods, sparse white and black furnishing, a bit reminiscent of what Avec might be like if it were more spacious. The effect is sleek and modern, not at all cold as one might think. The menu is fairly brief with only about 5-6 items on the appetizer, first and second courses. However, this does not mean that the menu decisions were easy, I thought almost every entree on the list looked like a worthy selection. The salmon blinis with caviar tempted my palate but I was in a fall mood and went with a special for my first course, an heirloom pumpkin soup, it was tasty, I'd actually like to try and recreate it at home myself but the server failed to mention that the soup was served cold. While it didn't take away from the flavor of the dish I would have probably preferred a hot option instead. Since I'm on the subject of service, it was a bit lacking - we sat for awhile after being seated and then once drink orders were taken they promptly rushed back to take our dinner orders leaving me to finish my cocktail with my first course, not something that should ever occur. Back to the important matter at hand though - the food! All four of us dining opted for different entrees and everyone appeared to be quite happy with their choices, there was a beef fillet, pork tenderloin with accompanying entree du jour of late, the pork belly, a ricotta gnocchi so light and delicious I was happy to have been offered a bite and then my Colorado lamb chop on a bed pureed chickpeas with a hint of bleu cheese - I happily ate every last bite I am a bit proud and ashamed to say. Dessert was a bit standard, creme brulees, molten chocolate cakes, all fine but they could stand to notch it up a bit in the dessert department. My biggest disappointment with the evening was the wine selections, the server really wasn't that knowledgeable and most everything we tried to order off the list was unavailable as they were apparently in transition from summer to fall wine lists. (Suggestion: back that clear up front and have your sommelier provide some suggestions to the table rather than letting us suffer through only to be displeased with the option). The service and the wine list could both stand to grow up a bit but the food and sleek Randolph setting were enough to still make it a solid standout night in my mind. Next time I'll give them a try in a solid mid-season and be a bit more aggressive about wine preferences and I'm sure it will be a stellar night. Saltaus worth a visit next time you're considering a trip to Randolph's Restaurant Row.
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Have you been to Sola yet? Steve wants to go there soon because apparantly one of the chefs is from Top Chef, on the Food Network, I think.
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