Saltaus Review : Two And A Half Stars

Another restaurant review coming your way, but before I progress I should provide some explanation to my rating system. The standard "1" is bad, "4" is the best scale doesn't apply here, my scale is modeled somewhat like Phil Vettel's (Tribune's food critic). 1 is okay, 2 pretty good, 3 a definite delight, I will be back and 4 means a place is made for you in my Chicago favorites list. So with being said, here's my review of Saltaus.
A restaurant also located on the West Loop restaurant row that is Randolph Street, Saltaus is a recently new edition opened for about a year and a half, located at the far west end of the strip of gastronomy. A contemporary American spot, Saltaus is housed in a very contemporary storefront, light woods, sparse white and black furnishing, a bit reminiscent of what Avec might be like if it were more spacious. The effect is sleek and modern, not at all cold as one might think. The menu is fairly brief with only about 5-6 items on the appetizer, first and second courses. However, this does not mean that the menu decisions were easy, I thought almost every entree on the list looked like a worthy selection. The salmon blinis with caviar tempted my palate but I was in a fall mood and went with a special for my first course, an heirloom pumpkin soup, it was tasty, I'd actually like to try and recreate it at home myself but the server failed to mention that the soup was served cold. While it didn't take away from the flavor of the dish I would have probably preferred a hot option instead. Since I'm on the subject of service, it was a bit lacking - we sat for awhile after being seated and then once drink orders were taken they promptly rushed back to take our dinner orders leaving me to finish my cocktail with my first course, not something that should ever occur. Back to the important matter at hand though - the food! All four of us dining opted for different entrees and everyone appeared to be quite happy with their choices, there was a beef fillet, pork tenderloin with accompanying entree du jour of late, the pork belly, a ricotta gnocchi so light and delicious I was happy to have been offered a bite and then my Colorado lamb chop on a bed pureed chickpeas with a hint of bleu cheese - I happily ate every last bite I am a bit proud and ashamed to say. Dessert was a bit standard, creme brulees, molten chocolate cakes, all fine but they could stand to notch it up a bit in the dessert department. My biggest disappointment with the evening was the wine selections, the server really wasn't that knowledgeable and most everything we tried to order off the list was unavailable as they were apparently in transition from summer to fall wine lists. (Suggestion: back that clear up front and have your sommelier provide some suggestions to the table rather than letting us suffer through only to be displeased with the option). The service and the wine list could both stand to grow up a bit but the food and sleek Randolph setting were enough to still make it a solid standout night in my mind. Next time I'll give them a try in a solid mid-season and be a bit more aggressive about wine preferences and I'm sure it will be a stellar night. Saltaus worth a visit next time you're considering a trip to Randolph's Restaurant Row.

Sepia - A Review, Two Stars

This past Thursday I finally checked out Sepia, the much-hyped new restaurant over the in the near West Loop. It had highly irritated me for weeks that I couldn't get a weekend reservation calling two weeks in advance, "hello, this is Chicago!" unless it's Trotter's or Tru I expect to be in given a two week notice, but no dice with Sepia. So I opted for the strategy of go after work on a week night with no reservations and hope for the best. It worked out, I arrived and my friend had snagged spot in the front, lounge/dining area so we were set. I had been reading about Sepia in the local press for so long, that coupled with the inability to get a reservation (I'm a sucker for anything that oozes a difficulty to obtain) and my expectations for the place were somewhat high. We started with the much touted flatbreads, which you are almost expected to order but they were tasty enough so I didn't feel too put out. True to it's name it's the flattest bread imaginable with peaches, blue cheese and prosciutto, the flavor combos were perfect but a tad greasy for my taste. My dining companion was a fellow food lover so we shared both appetizers and entrees as to not miss out on anything. The pork ritelle was interesting, I enjoyed the flavor and texture of the pistachio brittle that accompanied the dish but don't believe that I would order it again as it felt a little too much like scooping fat out of a dish and slathering it on some bread (alas, isn't this called butter?) but the grilled octopus with a reduced tomato sauce/compote, not sure which it was?? was excellent and on point. Entrees were a skate wing (lovely) with roots vegetables, cooked but nothing more (skins on, very rustic) and veal cheeks, never having had veal cheeks I must confess the cut of meat was not what I expected, fine, but not the cut of veal I would prefer. Both dishes were fine, not excellent but acceptable. Dessert was a lemon bread pudding, leaning more towards pudding than bread, probably could have passed on this summer item still lingering on the menu, but what kind of girl would I be if I passed up dessert?? The service was a highpoint, a very patient sever who tolerated our chatting and not ordering for quite some time but was always hovering in the near distance if we ever needed her. So after all the hype and frustration in trying to get in I must say that it was fine but didn't live up to my expectations, but then again, all those of the built-up expectations never do. Check out Sepia, but wait until it's become a neighborhood staple rather than the new thing to do.

Anteprima - A Review

This past week I had dinner at Anteprima, a relatively new Italian spot right in the heart of Andersonville. With a smaller but intimate front dining room and a lovely outdoor back patio the look and feel of Anteprima sets the scene, charming yet a bit rustic. The place started out on the right note, winning big points with me as I sat at the bar waiting for my friend and the bartender all of her own accord offered me several wine tastings to determine which Italian selection I'd like the best and then ended up pouring me a glass that wasn't even on the menu. Fabulous! (The pours are quite generous as well.) Anteprima's menu is not overcomplicated focusing on some simple, regional Italian dishes but that doesn't mean it's limited, there are a number of items that I would go back and try. I'm all about the movement to simple flavors and the focus on local ingredients and you get this at Anteprima. There were a number of specials that night and I shared one as an appetizer, some fresh figs that were deliciously in season with prosciutto, Gorgonzola and a balsamic drizzle - possibly perfection on a little plate. When going Italian I am usually a pasta girl all the way (and no surprise I was that night as well) but the menu had many intriguing meat dishes: quail, barramundi, veal - I was heavily tempted. In the end however I went with the bucatini with pea shoots, pecorino and seasoned with chili oil to give an interesting and welcomed quick, this was a light dish that still packed a punch. I also sampled the ravioli and it was melt in your mouth good.
Desserts, ours was an orange cake with sambuca whipped cream were so-so, I'd recommend skipping dessert and walking down half a block for a piece of confection perfection at Sweet Occasions bakery.
Anteprima: charming setting, solid service, simple and appealing flavors and most importantly plentiful wine! Definitely worth a visit.

Book Review: Into the Wild & Jen Lancaster

Into the Wild - Two and a Half Stars
The book my book club's reading this month is Into the Wild by Jonathan Krakauer. I thought the description of the book, a fresh-out-of-college guy from privileged middle class America hitches around the U.S. then treks into the Alaskan wild and mysteriously dies was interesting but I didn't expect to like the book as much as I did. Being a person who appreciates the outdoors but cannot understand why one would willingly choose to live in discomfort, I thought that I would be annoyed with Chris McCandless and the author's depiction of his story. It was just the opposite, retracing the steps he made during his final year was enthralling and what especially added to the story for me was Krakauer's deftly woven in quotes from numerous pieces of notable American literature that highlighted man's obsession with nature, beauty for beauty's sake and the value of self-reliance in a material world (although I AM a material girl - sorry couldn't help it.)
Krakauer wraps up McCandless's story in such a way that you aren't angry at him for his seemingly foolish and selfish choices, although my one bone of contention was the callous way in which McCandless dealt with his family who quite honestly did nothing to provoke such treatment. It's a great, quick read on a subject that most probably can't relate to but if Krakauer could make this city chick at least marginally relate to the urge to chuck it all and head for the woods then there has to be something to this book.
For a few fun, sassy reads from a Chicago author try Bitter is The New Black or Bright Lights: Big Ass by Jen Lancaster. The first book follows her fall from dot-com divadom to unemployment and (some) humility. Totally entertaining, I love Jen's attitude and writing style, especially her footnotes! This is an author I could go out for cocktails with and likely inspire a strange chapter in her next memoir. Bright Lights is life post "the crash" her attempts to become a full-time writer and all the annoying and endearing craziness that happens living in this great city.

Into the Wild - Two and a Half Stars
The book my book club's reading this month is Into the Wild by Jonathan Krakauer. I thought the description of the book, a fresh-out-of-college guy from privileged middle class America hitches around the U.S. then treks into the Alaskan wild and mysteriously dies was interesting but I didn't expect to like the book as much as I did. Being a person who appreciates the outdoors but cannot understand why one would willingly choose to live in discomfort, I thought that I would be annoyed with Chris McCandless and the author's depiction of his story. It was just the opposite, retracing the steps he made during his final year was enthralling and what especially added to the story for me was Krakauer's deftly woven in quotes from numerous pieces of notable American literature that highlighted man's obsession with nature, beauty for beauty's sake and the value of self-reliance in a material world (although I AM a material girl - sorry couldn't help it.)
Krakauer wraps up McCandless's story in such a way that you aren't angry at him for his seemingly foolish and selfish choices, although my one bone of contention was the callous way in which McCandless dealt with his family who quite honestly did nothing to provoke such treatment. It's a great, quick read on a subject that most probably can't relate to but if Krakauer could make this city chick at least marginally relate to the urge to chuck it all and head for the woods then there has to be something to this book.
For a few fun, sassy reads from a Chicago author try Bitter is The New Black or Bright Lights: Big Ass by Jen Lancaster. The first book follows her fall from dot-com divadom to unemployment and (some) humility. Totally entertaining, I love Jen's attitude and writing style, especially her footnotes! This is an author I could go out for cocktails with and likely inspire a strange chapter in her next memoir. Bright Lights is life post "the crash" her attempts to become a full-time writer and all the annoying and endearing craziness that happens living in this great city.

A Few Things

Some thoughts that crossed my mind today............

I have the perfect butt for the bustled skirt - if it were the 1880s I would be world-renowned super model (however when you have this realization in a pencil skirt it isn't the most uplifting thing). I might stop by the Art Institute and request that they paint me into Sunday at the Grande Jatte (aka the dot painting).

Why does plumber have a "b" in it? This is annoying me - I want to change it to plummer - don't ask why, it was just an irritant today.

And men should never wear a short sleeved "dress shirt" (kind of an oxymoron in my opinion) - the look is awful, unless you are trying to blend in at an assisted living community don't do it.

Mexx at Whiskey Bar - Three Stars

Last Thursday night myself and few stalwart friends braved the midwest monsoon and headed to Mexx on Rush Street for a pre-birthday celebration (for those of you that want to mark the actual date on your calendar for future reference it's August 24). Since it was insanity outside and I knew that my neighborhood in Lakeview looked like the tornado scene from Wizard of Oz I was more than happy to instead go out for some Mexican inspired drinks and dinner. Mexx is part of the Whiskey Bar chain and it's right at Rush & State, that's right, sitting right smack dab in the middle of the Viagra Triangle. About 360 days of the year I make fun of this part of town but every so often I get the inkling to make a trip over to the neighborhood and I'm glad I did for Mexx. In what used to be a dark, velveted bark that was total cheesiness that fit right in with the likes of Jilly's. Mexx has been redone into a more rustic, wood-hewn Mexican decor with big, chunky furniture with only the teeniest Mexican flair. While watching for the flock to come in from the storm I had a pomegranate margaritas, while delicious it really tasted nothing like pomegranate and more like the jungle-juice that I used to drink out of a garbage can at fraternity parties. This isn't necessarily a complaint - I loved the jungle juice - it led to many a fun night (I think, it also had the tendency to erase my memory) so needless the drink is strong but if you don't feel like reliving your college years before dinner then you might want to take a pass. As we ordered an appetizer and wondered how many of our friends had been swept away into the Chicago river, Mexx passed the first test for my "what makes a good Mexican restaurant" - they did not skimp on the guacamole!!! They brought a heaping dish in fact and sitting a table with several other chip and guac lovers we weren't even able to finish it. However, I'm glad I saved some room because my dinner was great. A ton of options looked enticing on the menu, ensuring that I'll be back but I went for the steak with some au-gratiny, poblanoey (love that description) potatoes and a light mole sauce - not only was it beautifully plated but it was also a treat going down. And while I didn't sample them the beef enchiladas and chicken poblano that others got at the table also appeared to be enjoyed by our water-logged group. The service was also a bonus, very attentive and friendly with the house manager stopping by several times to check in on everything. My one complaint -no candle in the dessert for me but I blame that on my dining companions rather than the restaurant how could they be expected to know my birthday (this year at least, for next year they better be ready).
Go to Mexx now if you are looking for a little VT vibe without having to inhale a side of beef.